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Article #197: History of Native American Turquoise Jewelry in The USA

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The Beautiful blue and green hues of squash-blossom craze lasted until 1940,
turquoise have long been prized by the when they were discontinued by most
Native American peoples of the Indian artisans for requiring too much
southwestern part of the USA. Entire work and too much turquoise.
cultures were built on mining turquoise In the 1920's and 1930's, the concho belt
and crafting sacred and special items changed from a simple silver belt to a
from the attractive stone in areas which more ornate belt with one to multiple
are now part of both New Mexico and turquoise stones in all the individual
Nevada. American Indian peoples were sections of the belt. The tourist jewelry
making necklace strands and other of that era is highly collectable today.
turquoise jewelry by hand many centuries It began to be noticed that sales of
before the first European settlers Native American jewelry had significant
arrived. Because turquoise was so highly potential to provide a reliable income
prized, it was widely exchanged and source to tribal members across Arizona
circulated among the Native peoples of and New Mexico. During those years,
the Americas, and the each of the tribes schools and classes were established at
developed their own unique names for the several reservations to train young men
striking blue stone. Scientific testing in the trade of making Native American
has proven that some ancient beads found style Sterling and turquoise jewelry. In
in central and South America were the following decades, many very talented
originally dug from the Cerrillos artists came out of these schools. During
turquoise mines near Santa Fe, New the years following WWII, many Americans
Mexico. traveled across the country, and on their
When the Europeans brought the technology trips through the Arizona-New Mexico
of working metals like silver with them area, discovered that local traders had
to the new world, the American Indians rooms full of this Native American
who learned the silver smith trade jewelry, which the traders called pawn
learned eventually began to add turquoise pieces. Most of these were jewelry pieces
with the silver to develop their own the Indian people made for themselves and
special style of jewelry. A Zuni man by pawned for one of two reasons: either
the name of Kineshde is believed to be they needed money, or it was considered a
the first to add turquoise to the hand safe storage place. As a result of the
crafted silver items he was making in the popularity of these pawn pieces, a host
late 1800s. of trading posts sprang up in the
Turquoise first came into popular high Southwest and knowledge of this unique
fashion in the US during the early 1890s, style of jewelry became much more
but Persian turquoise was the focus of widespread. New jewelry was also created
the demand at that time, and only a few to meet the growing tourist demand. Those
deposits of high quality turquoise were who appreciated the beautiful American
known in the US. In the following years, turquoise began to recognize the general
a number of high quality deposits differences in matrix patterns and color,
previously worked by Native Americans etc. between the different mine sources.
were "rediscovered", and shortly after During this time, which extended to the
1900 and Americans began to recognize early 1950's, turquoise began to be
that American turquoise from the Western named, for sales purposes, after the mine
US was the equal of any in the world. in which it was found, such as Lone
Interest again began to peak around Mountain, Royston, Blue Gem, and others.
1908-1910, and a considerable amount of An increasing number of American Indians
American turquoise was mined, especially continued to handcraft silver jewelry in
in Nevada. The majority of the Turquoise the 1950s and early 1960's in the
jewelry produced prior to 1910 was made traditional way. Up to that time their
by well-known jewelry manufacturing work was generally popular only in the
companies like Tiffany's, and was southwest region of the US, but the
produced in the standard Victorian styles increasing amount of material available
of those times. began to enable a larger audience to see
None of this was what we would recognize and appreciate this beautiful style of
as Indian style turquoise jewelry. There jewelry art. Even so, it did not become
were a few Native Americans making widely popular across the entire US until
turquoise and silver pieces in what we the late 1960's and early 1970's. At that
now see as the traditional style, but time the simple and natural beauty of
they produced very few pieces and their turquoise jewelry became the rage of the
very simple tools increased the man hours American fashion scene. The prices of the
each piece needed for completion. That old pawn jewelry rocketed upward, and a
era was essentially the dawn of the craze for Indian turquoise jewelry
traditional styles for silver-turquoise swelled and boosted demand (and prices)
jewelry. America's fascination with for turquoise to previously undreamed
turquoise and genuine Indian Jewelry levels. The increased prices and demand
really began in earnest during the 1920's caused the re-opening of many mines and
when more people from outside the the import of Indian "style" jewelry made
southwest began to see the beauty of this by manufacturers in Mexico, Taiwan, and
artistic jewelry. the Philippines. In time, the market
At that time, the Harvey House restaurant became glutted, the consumer was confused
chain opened a number of facilities by overpriced synthetic, stabilized and
across the southwest during the great plastic imitation materials and by 1981
days of popular rail travel across the the supply was high but the demand was
US. At first, Indian Jewelry was only gone.
sold as curios in the restaurants for the The market collapsed and most of the
patrons touring the west. Earrings and American turquoise mines were shut down
thin, small bracelets stamped with arrows and have remained closed since that time.
and bows and containing symmetrically cut Turquoise demand hit a low water mark in
small oval pieces of turquoise were the the early 1980s, but has been slowly and
types most in demand. The pieces produced steadily increasing in popularity since
during this time are still termed as that time. Most American mines have
having been made in the "Fred Harvey" remained closed, and in recent years high
style. Heavy Indian Jewelry did not demand for natural American turquoise has
become popular until after 1925, when the caused once again significant increases
classic squash-blossom necklaces were in prices.
first brought to the tourist market. The






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