History of Native American Turquoise Jewelry in The USA

The Beautiful blue and green hues of turquoisemarket. The squash-blossom craze lasted until
have long been prized by the Native American1940, when they were discontinued by most
peoples of the southwestern part of the USA.Indian artisans for requiring too much work and
Entire cultures were built on mining turquoise andtoo much turquoise.
crafting sacred and special items from theIn the 1920's and 1930's, the concho belt changed
attractive stone in areas which are now part offrom a simple silver belt to a more ornate belt
both New Mexico and Nevada. American Indianwith one to multiple turquoise stones in all the
peoples were making necklace strands and otherindividual sections of the belt. The tourist jewelry
turquoise jewelry by hand many centuries beforeof that era is highly collectable today. It began to
the first European settlers arrived. Becausebe noticed that sales of Native American jewelry
turquoise was so highly prized, it was widelyhad significant potential to provide a reliable
exchanged and circulated among the Nativeincome source to tribal members across Arizona
peoples of the Americas, and the each of theand New Mexico. During those years, schools and
tribes developed their own unique names for theclasses were established at several reservations
striking blue stone. Scientific testing has provento train young men in the trade of making Native
that some ancient beads found in central andAmerican style Sterling and turquoise jewelry. In
South America were originally dug from thethe following decades, many very talented artists
Cerrillos turquoise mines near Santa Fe, Newcame out of these schools. During the years
Mexico.following WWII, many Americans traveled across
When the Europeans brought the technology ofthe country, and on their trips through the
working metals like silver with them to the newArizona-New Mexico area, discovered that local
world, the American Indians who learned the silvertraders had rooms full of this Native American
smith trade learned eventually began to addjewelry, which the traders called pawn pieces.
turquoise with the silver to develop their ownMost of these were jewelry pieces the Indian
special style of jewelry. A Zuni man by the namepeople made for themselves and pawned for one
of Kineshde is believed to be the first to addof two reasons: either they needed money, or it
turquoise to the hand crafted silver items he waswas considered a safe storage place. As a result
making in the late 1800s.of the popularity of these pawn pieces, a host of
Turquoise first came into popular high fashion intrading posts sprang up in the Southwest and
the US during the early 1890s, but Persianknowledge of this unique style of jewelry became
turquoise was the focus of the demand at thatmuch more widespread. New jewelry was also
time, and only a few deposits of high qualitycreated to meet the growing tourist demand.
turquoise were known in the US. In the followingThose who appreciated the beautiful American
years, a number of high quality depositsturquoise began to recognize the general
previously worked by Native Americans weredifferences in matrix patterns and color, etc.
"rediscovered", and shortly after 1900 andbetween the different mine sources. During this
Americans began to recognize that Americantime, which extended to the early 1950's,
turquoise from the Western US was the equal ofturquoise began to be named, for sales purposes,
any in the world. Interest again began to peakafter the mine in which it was found, such as
around 1908-1910, and a considerable amount ofLone Mountain, Royston, Blue Gem, and others.
American turquoise was mined, especially inAn increasing number of American Indians
Nevada. The majority of the Turquoise jewelrycontinued to handcraft silver jewelry in the 1950s
produced prior to 1910 was made by well-knownand early 1960's in the traditional way. Up to that
jewelry manufacturing companies like Tiffany's,time their work was generally popular only in the
and was produced in the standard Victorian stylessouthwest region of the US, but the increasing
of those times.amount of material available began to enable a
None of this was what we would recognize aslarger audience to see and appreciate this beautiful
Indian style turquoise jewelry. There were a fewstyle of jewelry art. Even so, it did not become
Native Americans making turquoise and silverwidely popular across the entire US until the late
pieces in what we now see as the traditional1960's and early 1970's. At that time the simple
style, but they produced very few pieces andand natural beauty of turquoise jewelry became
their very simple tools increased the man hoursthe rage of the American fashion scene. The
each piece needed for completion. That era wasprices of the old pawn jewelry rocketed upward,
essentially the dawn of the traditional styles forand a craze for Indian turquoise jewelry swelled
silver-turquoise jewelry. America's fascination withand boosted demand (and prices) for turquoise to
turquoise and genuine Indian Jewelry really beganpreviously undreamed levels. The increased prices
in earnest during the 1920's when more peopleand demand caused the re-opening of many
from outside the southwest began to see themines and the import of Indian "style" jewelry
beauty of this artistic jewelry.made by manufacturers in Mexico, Taiwan, and
At that time, the Harvey House restaurant chainthe Philippines. In time, the market became
opened a number of facilities across theglutted, the consumer was confused by
southwest during the great days of popular railoverpriced synthetic, stabilized and plastic imitation
travel across the US. At first, Indian Jewelry wasmaterials and by 1981 the supply was high but the
only sold as curios in the restaurants for thedemand was gone.
patrons touring the west. Earrings and thin, smallThe market collapsed and most of the American
bracelets stamped with arrows and bows andturquoise mines were shut down and have
containing symmetrically cut small oval pieces ofremained closed since that time. Turquoise
turquoise were the types most in demand. Thedemand hit a low water mark in the early 1980s,
pieces produced during this time are still termedbut has been slowly and steadily increasing in
as having been made in the "Fred Harvey" style.popularity since that time. Most American mines
Heavy Indian Jewelry did not become popular untilhave remained closed, and in recent years high
after 1925, when the classic squash-blossomdemand for natural American turquoise has
necklaces were first brought to the touristcaused once again significant increases in prices.